By Dr. Narasinha Kamath

Since my childhood, I had always wished to visit Greece. The land of one of the most ancient cultures. After al, Greece is considered to be mother of Democracy and land of great philosophers like Socrates. I also had a great fascination to visit various GreekIslands. I also had a desire to tour Turkey. So last year, I finally decided to plan a tour of both these countries and also wished to take a 1 week cruise to travel thru GreekIslands, including a visit to Istanbul, Turkey. When I contemplated the plan, my wife Lalita was obviously delighted. I knew September was the best month to visit Greece and Turkey. So I booked the tour through COSMOS months in advance. I could have chosen GLOBUS Tours, but Globas is more expensive than COSMOS. Since GLOBUS has 5 Star Hotels and COSMOS books 3 to 4 Star Hotels hence COSMOS was less expensive.

We boarded LUFTHANSA airlines on Sept 8^th and flight took off at 7:30 PM from JFK, New York, exactly on time. We had to change the plane at Frankfurt but we only had 40 minutes after we had landed at Frankfurt to change over the plane for Athens. Frankfurt to Athens takes about 3 and half hours. Since there was renovation going on in FrankfurtAirport and Terminal building for Athens Flight was very far, we missed the connecting flight to Athens. And next flight was after 3 hours. So we cursed our luck. But it was a blessing in disguise. Because for onward journey to Athens, we were given business class, since we missed the flight. So our air-travel to Athens was very comfortable. So this comfort took care of our frustration of missing the connecting flight.

Athens : Capital of Greece:

We landed at Athens airport on time at around 5 PM local time. Weather was very pleasant with 70 degrees Fahrenheit. In fact, throughout the year, average temperature of Athens varies from 45 degrees Fahrenheit in winter to 80 Degrees Fahrenheit in August and September. We picked up our baggage and then finished the immigration check and were out of AthensTerminalBuilding within 30 minutes. Compared to JFK airport of New York, Athens airport is mush smaller. Cosmos agent was already waiting outside the terminal building to pick all Cosmos travelers. He was holding a placard with Cosmos sign. Agent quickly verified our names in his list and made arrangements for a taxi to Hotel Acropolis (Acropolis means Hill or in real literal sense it means as a City on the edge).

Taxi driver spoke English very well so there was no problem in communication. Driver told us that our Hotel was about 1 hour drive from the airport. He also told us that in Greece everyone speaks English very well in addition to there native language Greek. This made us comfortable, unlike in France where English speaking travelers have problem in communication since nobody speaks English (or probably nobody wants to speak English). Taxi driver also told us that the current population of Greece was 10 Million and half the population lived (5 Million) lived in Athens, the Capital of Greece.

While riding in the Taxi, I was looking outside. I could see the billboards with words containing alpha, beta, theta, gamma etc., the Greek alphabets which I had used in mathematics. After looking at these Greek billboards with Greek alphabets, I realized that I was now very much in Greece. Unlike many other big international cities, I was surprised to note that there were no buildings which were higher than 6 to 8 storey. I had expected that I would be seeing tall skyscrapers all across Athens. But there were none. I asked the driver why there were no tall skyscrapers in Athens and he explained that by law, no building was allowed to be constructed higher than Parthenon, the most famous site of Athens as well as whole world. It seems that Greek Government wants Parthenon to remain an imposing structure within Athens. But later on, some other Greek Citizen told me that since Athens is earthquake-prone like San Francisco and Los Angeles , buildings are not allowed to be constructed higher than 8 storeys. I accepted both arguments.

We reached Hotel Acropolis at 6:05 PM. This was a 3-Star Hotel. I paid 2 Euros as tip to the driver for all the information that he provided during our Taxi ride. Euro is a common currency of 12 European countries. One Euro is equal to US $1.30. I saw that in Greece they preferred the Euro over mighty US Dollar. Although Dollar is of course accepted everywhere. After the desk formalities at the hotel, the hotel helper quickly took us and our luggage to a second floor suite. At 7 PM, we had to meet our Tour Director from Cosmos who would accompany us for 2 next weeks of our Greek-Turkey tour including a 7-day cruise. So I told Lalita to get ready for 7 PM meeting.

Exactly at 7 PM, we entered the meeting room in the Lobby where Denise (I would say about 55 years old), the tour director, was already waiting for all Cosmos tourists. She introduced herself and all our co-tourists introduced themselves to Denise. Denise gave us all the flyers about the tour of 2 weeks, list of hotels and detailed schedule and gave a brief description of AthensCity and Greek Culture. She also gave description about Turkey. I came to know that Turkey in the past, had ruled Greece for 400 years (Ottoman Empire 1453 AD 1831 AD). During this time, Greece also ruled most part of Middle East and Balkans and as far as Vienna, Austria. The Ottoman Rule over Greece is considered to be an oppressive rule and Greece finally won independence on March 25^th, 1831. Although Greece is in Europe which is west, still one can see that East almost starts from Greece. One can see shades of Eastern culture in Greece.

Let me summarize first about Greek Culture:

Although Greece is a Democratic country, the Greek Orthodox Church has full control over Greece Government regarding religious matters. Although the practice of other Religions such as Islam, Jewish and many other Religions are allowed in Greece, still if you want to build a Temple (A House of Worship) for the people belonging to the faith other than Greek Orthodoxy then you have to take written permission from the Head of Greek Orthodox Church (Archbishop) and also from the Department of Religious affairs of Government of Greece. Government however provides for the right of all citizens to practice the religion of their choice. In Greece 97% follow Greek Orthodoxy, 2.9% follow Islam and rest .1% follow other Religions.

Most of the traditions and festivals celebrated in Greece are of Religious nature. Greeks are very superstitious. Most of the Greeks owe their names to Greek religious saints. Before the marriage, Greeks are bound to get engaged themselves. The man is supposed to ask hand of a woman from her father. After womans father agrees a priest is invited to bless the engagement rings. The priest places the rings on left ring finger of man and woman.

For marriage, brides mother, grandmother and aunts give sheets, towels and handmade embroideries as a dowry to the bride. Father of the bride also gives furnished apartment or house as a dowry to his daughter and his son-in-law. Many a times when Greeks build their own houses, they reserve one of the floors of their house (ahead of time) for giving dowry to his future son-in-law. And after daughter gets married she lives on this floor with her husband.

Greek music is very diverse and has the influence from both Europe as well as Asia. The poetry, dancing and music are inseparable part of Greek music. Greece has produced many talented artists and composers. Greek folk music is very rich.

Greek cuisine is very famous for its good quality products and its amazing taste of its food and wine. Metaxa brand wine is very famous all over Greece.

Greeks are very fun loving and easy going people. Even in big cities like Athens, you do not feel that there is a mad rush unlike for example in New York and Mumbai. Pace of Greek life is medium, not too slow (like in Portugal) or not too fast.

It was a womans voice. I realized my mistake that I was too loud. Flute sounds melodious when you are awake but its sound can easily disturb someone who is asleep. I felt ashamed of myself that I disturbed someone. This was definitely my fault. I knew next day, the next door woman is going to complain to my tour director Denise. I was all prepared to apologize.

Early morning at 7 AM, someone knocked at my door and there I saw Denise, our Tour Director and she told me that she was that woman in the next room and I disturbed her sleep. The person whom I disturbed early morning was none other than our Director Denise herself. I immediately apologized for my deed. She advised me that she did not mind if I played flute early morning after all other co-tourists woke up at 6 AM (note that 6 AM was our wake-up call time) and should not play when they are sleeping (that is before 6 AM). I knew my mistake and I did not say a single word.

Early morning, we had a very good continental breakfast in the hotel. Our sightseeing luxury bus was waiting outside to take us around Athens city and Parthenon. Since we finished our breakfast early we could get on the bus and occupy the front seat. Later, all other passengers boarded the bus. Denise saw me occupying the front seats. She first gave me an angry look because of last nights event. She announced in the bus, that the seats that we occupy are good only for the day and next day we should take turns and sit on different seats by moving backwards. I nodded in agreement. Most of the travelers in Cosmos were from USA, few were from England, one couple was from South Africa and one 85 year old woman was from New Zealand.

The first stop was the Parliament building of Greece. We got down the bus and walked towards the parliament building. It did not seem to be an impressive building. At the entrance of the Parliament building, we saw Greek soldiers participating in changing of the guard ceremony in front of the parliament building which is conducted every day morning at 9 AM and this ceremony is quite spectacular to watch.

After this event, we again went back to our bus. Denise was already in her seat. After I entered the bus and occupied my seat, Denise came to me and told me that she really loved my melodious flute, but I was playing at wrong time. In fact, she introduced me to other Cosmos travelers that I am a good flute player and asked me to play flute in the bus while we were touring inner city of Athens.

But my real interest was to see the Great Marble Structure of Parthenon in Acropolis. But I did not have to wait too long for it. After the tour of inner city, we finally arrived at the entrance of Parthenon. Parthenon was built by Athenian Empire in memory of Goddess Athena from which the city name Athens was derived. Work to build Parthenon started in 447 BC and work continued until 432 BC (see below photo). The Parthenon represents the tangible and visible efflorescence of Athenian Imperial Power. Likewise, it symbolizes the power and influence of Athenian politician, Perikles, who championed its construction.

Parthenon is a Doric peripteral Temple which means that it consists of a rectangular floor plan with a series of low steps on every side, and a colonnade (8 by 17) of Doric columns extending around the peripheri of the entire structure. Each entrance has an additional six columns in front of it. The larger of the two interior rooms, the naos, housed the cult statue. The smaller room (the opisthodomos) was used as a treasury. Parthenon was built to replace 2 earlier temples of Athena on the Acropolis. There is no trace of one of these 2 temples. The other temple is Parthenon that we see today. A massive cult statue of Goddess Athena was sculpted and placed inside Parthenon. See the design of pillars of Parthenon in above photo and also the photo pasted at the begining of the article.

Our bus stopped close to the steps leading to Parthenon. There are about 300 steps to climb before you reach Parthenon on top of the hill. While climbing these steps at various points, you can see stunning panoramic view of Athens city (see the photos below).After about 25 minutes of climbing we reached Parthenon. I could not believe that finally I had reached the most famous destination in Greece. As I stood in front of gigantic structure of Parthenon, I had the same dazzling feeling when I had visited Agra to see Taj Mahal in 1986. Although Taj Mahal and Parthenon are totally different structures.You can see in above photothat renovation of Parthenon is currently being done by Greek Government.

Right behind the Parthenon, there is the most famous Museum of Acropolis. This is one of the most important museums of the world. It temporarily houses masterpieces of ancient Greek Civilization. Construction for NewAcropolisMuseum has already begun. Many of the unique works of art that ornamented this Museum have been stolen and transferred abroad by international thieves. But whatever remaining in the Museum is still fabulous pieces of ancient artwork.

We also climbed the Philoppapou Hill and saw the panoramic view from Saronic Gulf to Argolic Hills. Also at a distance you see beautiful AthensCity which stretches out for miles extending upto mountains Parnitha and Imittos. On this hill, you are almost at eye-level with the Acropolis and you can see a breathtaking view of Parthenon.

Part of Parthenon Ruins

View of Athens City in the background from Parthenon Hill Point

After visit to Plaka, we drove about 20 minutes and reached the old Olympic Stadium (See below photo) of Athens. This stadium was built around 324 BC was renovated in 140 AD so that seating capacity was increased to 50,000. This stadium is also known as Panathenian Stadium. In 1895, one year before first modern Olympics were held in Athens 1896, seating capacity was increased to 80,000. However, 2004 Summer Olympics (Aug.13th through Aug. 29^th, 2004) was held in newly constructed Olympic Stadium at a different location, Maroussi, a suburb of Athens with seating capacity of 71,030.

After completing the tour of Parthenon, Athens, we boarded our bus for our next destination to picturesque Kalambaka. It was Sept. 11, 2006. As soon as bus started, Lalita reminded our tour director that today was 9/11, a very sad day and is considered to be one of the blackest days in American History when 2 towers of World Trade Center were destroyed by terrorists 5 years before. Denise had a short talk on 9/11 tragedy while the bus was in motion.

Kalambaka is a small town of very famous monasteries about 357 kilometers from Athens. This is about 6 hours drive through the hilly area. It was a very scenic drive as we drove through mountains. Government of Greece has planted beautiful trees along this drive. Before visiting Greece, I was under impression that Greece was a flat territory without any mountains. But it was contrary to what I had thought. Greece has lots of mountains.

Kalambaka and Meteora: Town of Ancient Monasteries:

After about 6 hours bus drive, and enjoying breathtaking views along the route, we reached small town of Kalambaka at about 8 PM. Kalambaka is a modern town close to Meteora which is the most famous site of Greek Orthodox Monasteries. The most interesting feature of this town is the dramatic backdrop of the steep Meteora rocks that frame the northern part of the skyline. The photos which I took at Kalambaka are pasted belowwill definitely speak volumes about the beauty of Meteora and its surrounding hills and rock formation.

Kalambaka is a tourist town and has large number of Hotels which are not that expensive. Its busy main street is filled with small tourist shops, cafes and restaurants and pretty fountains. Kalambaka town is at the foothills of Meteora.

See below photo.

In Meteora, the high rock which is named as Agia is the landmark of Meteora and separates it from Kastraki (2 KM westwards), and the paved road from Kalambaka to Meteora is a winding road leading up to hill. Monasteries are built on top of the hills.

Kalambaka town is a year-round tourist attraction with lavish fountains (see above photoof Kalambaka town ). Kalambaka is famous for sweets. Especially sweet dish, Baklava and halva are very delicious. I was surprised to see that Greeks, similar to Indians, call this sweet dish as halva which consists of lots of sugar and almonds.

After overnight stay in Kalambaka, next day morning was Sept 12^th, 2006. We boarded our bus along with our luggage and headed up to the hills of Meteora for sightseeing of Famous Monasteries of Meteora. While driving through the winding roads of Mountains, the scenery is unbelievably breathtaking. When you see those clean cut rock formations (see above photos) all around you, one can say this is one of the most beautiful sights in Greece.

Within 1 hour of ride through the mountains, finally we reached the top of the mountain close to the most famous monastery of Meteora. The world meteora literally means hovering in the air and brings to mind word meteor. What created this geological phenomenon of high rock formation is one of the mysteries of nature. There are many theories on this formation but none have been proved so far. Meteora is one of the most spectacular places to visit in Greece.

In Meteora, we visited 6 Monasteries on top of the hills, the brief description of each monastery is given below. The area of Meteora town was originally settled by monks who lived in caves within the rocks during 11^th century. During Turkish occupation when the times became more unsure because of lawlessness, the monks climbed higher and higher up the rock until they were living on the inaccessible peaks where they were able to build Monasteries on top of the hills by bringing material and people using ladders and baskets. Many a times material was brought up the hills using ropes tied to the baskets containing material. This was the method used to get the construction material from bottom of the mountain to top of mountain peaks. Now of course, they have roads, pathways and steps to climb to the top of the mountains where all 6 monasteries are located. During the Turkish occupation, it was these 6 monasteries which kept alive Hellenic culture and Traditions of Greece. If not for these monasteries, the Hellenic culture of Greece would have disappeared and present day Greece would have been a reflection the Turkish Ottoman Empire.

1) Agia Triada monestary was founded by the monk Dometius in 15^th Century and this monastery was used by James Bond film For Your Eyes Only.

2) Varlaam monastery was founded in 1517 by Theopa and Nektarios. This monastery houses a beautiful wall painting from 18^th century. To get to this monastery, you have to walk upto 140 steps cut into the rock, past the church of Saint John the Baptist with its wall paintings from 1682. This monastery is open from 9 AM to 1 PM everyday. When I went inside the monastery, I could feel the spiritual vibration, same kind of vibration that I felt when I visited Vaishno Devi in Katara, Jammu and Kashmir in 1986. The sanctum Sanctorum of this monastery with the idol of Jesus Christ is really very divine. I had a great desire to play my flute inside this sanctum sanctorum (like I normally do in Hindu Temples whenever I visit them). But I was afraid of those Priests in black gowns who were keeping a close watch on visitors. I dissuaded myself from my utmost desire and finally did not play flute inside the sanctum sanctorum.

Lalita took the movie while I was playing. And after I finished playing, I could see lots of visitors from different countries (like Chinese, Spanish, Americans, Europeans) giving me a big applause through their claps. Some tourists took my photo and also recorded my Flute Tune while I was playing. Although I am a hobbyist, I really felt like a celebrity. They asked me my name and where I come from etc. I felt really too good. I could sense that although I was playing Indian Classical, I realized that music cuts through all manmade barriers of Caste, Creed, Religion and Nationality. Music is really universal. See my above photo where I played 2 Flute Tunes.

3) Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Anapafsas was built in 16^th century by Dionysious of Larissa and named after an old patron.

4) Megalo Meteora or Metamorphisis is the best known monastery and is built upon the highest rock. Founded by collection of relics, intricately carved wooden crosses, icons and embroidered epitaphoi and many other treasures of 15^th century.

5) Roussar Monastery: This was founded in 1545 by Joasaph and Maximox, the two brothers from Epirus. To get to this monastery, you have to cross a small bridge from another peak. The view while crossing this bridge is dazzling.

6) Agios Stefanos was dedicated to Saint Haralambos and was built in 1798. The saints skull was given to nuns as a gift. And this skull is now kept in this monastery. There are some beautiful paintings depicting biblical times.

Proper attire is required to enter in any one above 6 monasteries. Women must wear skirts below their knees though in some monasteries proper attire is provided temporarily to women who happen to come in shorts or slacks. Mens arms must be covered and they must wear long pants. The monasteries provide an incredible view of ancient religious treasures, wall paintings, icons and libraries with rich and old manuscripts. Most of these monasteries were built during 1500s and more renovations took place over next few centuries.

After visiting the monasteries, we climbed down the mountain where our bus was parked. There were still another 30 minutes before the bus started for onward journey. So as usual, I started to play some classical tunes on my small short pitch Bamboo Flute. As I was playing, Denise (our tour director) came and sat close to me. She seemed to have gotten mesmerized with our Indian Classical Music. After I finished playing, she asked me lots of questions about Bamboo Flute and Indian Classical Music. And I explained to her everything. Denise was surprised to know that among all the instruments, flute is the most natural instrument and also the oldest instrument (about 8,000 years old) and does not contain any mechanical parts. All that anger of Denise which she had displayed few days ago when I had disturbed her sleep due to my Flute playing was nowhere to be seen anymore. Denise now was a transformed person. And her attitude towards me changed completely. She became very friendly until the end of our tour.

Meteora Hills Photo 4

So this is Part 1 of my Greece and Turkey Tour. I am going to blog 2 more parts of this tour which will cover many other locations in Greece including Delphi, Olympia and our visits to beautiful Greek islands by Cruise and also visit to Turkish Capital Istanbul and Turkish island of Kusadasi. I will also upload lots of photos once again in Part 2 and Part 3 of my forthcoming blog. Please watch out for these 2 future blogs in Sulekha.

Authors Note : At the beginning of this Travelogue, I have attached 2 Flutes tunes of the song Kora Kagaz Tha Ye Man Mera (Film : Aradhana, 1969) and Karavten Badalate Rahe, Saari Raat Hum (Film : Aap Ki Kasam, 1974) which I played myself at the foothills of Monastery in Meteora Hills. Please click play button to listen to it again.